RV ing from a Brit’s view. Part 5.

 

6/8/98.

From our overnight stop in  , Minnesota sheltering from the rain, we headed off under gray skies to try and make The Winnebago Factory at Forest City, Iowa in the county of “Winnebago”, 60 miles away.

Almost every vehicle draws it’s name from an American town or community. Itasca, Cadillac, Hudson, Pontiac, Scotsdale, Fairmont, Dakota, Concorde, Mustang, Suburban, etc. Not very imaginative.

We had only traveled about 20 miles when hunger, the need to phone home and the dark ominous skies made us pull off into a T. A. Travel Center. This new, modern Nordic style facility had everything under one roof. Burger bar, Pizza cafe and a family style restaurant, numerous phone booths, souvenir and grocery shops with the best bathroom facilities any traveler could ever want.

Outside was a vast lorry park, at least 30 fuel islands, vacuum, air, water and dump. A separate RV parking area made it easy for us to turn in.

As we walked to the phones the smell of bacon drew us to the restaurant where an “All You Can Eat Breakfast Buffet” for only $5.99, included every possible choice. We gave in and started with the soup. By the time we ate our way through breakfast the Lunch Buffet was being loaded onto the hot plates.

The sweet and fruit almost beat us, the coffee cup was never more than half empty and the final bill for two was an amazing $14.78 or £9.23. We did not eat for 24 hours after.

The rain held off just long enough for us to drive to Winnebago Industries Visitors Center in Forest City. I asked where the customer RV parking facility was. “Your in it” was the response.

I was expecting something better than the gravel car park with a dozen or so power points dotted around from the mighty Winnebago name. As it was raining it was most undesirable.

Considering the dealers and other manufacturers facilities for customers and their motorhomes this ranked a very poor bad. Ironically there is a 1500 space campground across the road but is only opened up twice a year for the Winnebago rallies.

The factory tour was another thing altogether. Starting with a 25 minute film show which covered the production line from raw plastic and aluminum ingots to the latest finished Winnebago, Itasca, Vectra, Luxor and Realta motorhomes. A new model “The Freedom” in just being produced now.

Then an actual tour in an air-conditioned bus with running commentary. 18 buildings cover the 60 acres and made up the plant with one gigantic hanger called “Bertha”, which we were told was the largest motorhome assembly plant in the “world”.

Five assembly lines progressed slowly along with parts dropping down from the many overhead conveyor belts, the closest thing to a automobile assembly plant. 40 units per DAY roll off including the VW based Rialta. These are now delivered from Germany with two front ends bolted together as Winnebago manufacture everything behind the cab.

I did manage to speak to a member of management about the shabby way they treated me after buying a new Winnebago. They could not even reply to my letters or faxes. His reply was “Gee that’s too bad”. Which only goes to corroborate the general reputation that Winnebago has, that after they have your money they are no longer interested.

Forest City is an insignificant small town. The majority of it’s inhabitants work at the plant. This in itself is a limitation on production for Winnebago, as there are no more available workers. Plus the pay is only $8 to $12 per hour.

A company that delivers all the new motorhomes is always looking for drivers. If you have the time a few weeks work might supplement the income.

After two nights in this now muddy car park  we stayed just long enough to visit the Winnebago Surplus Store. This shop is where all surplus parts are sold off at great reductions, from interior furniture and decor to the nuts and bolts, plumbing and electrical. We even found a new cooker hob top for $1.50, an amber rear light assembly for The Eagle for $2.50 and a spare set of waste water valves for $19.00.

Taking Iowa county road 9 west for 120 miles that day we drove for hours through fields of sweet corn and Soya as far as the eye could see.

The terrain is generally quite flat but this sea of green has the occasional tree covered knoll protruding out of it which contains the farm house and buildings, neat, tidy and the only obvious sign is a post box beside the road. 

After two hours and wondering if we had made a mistake, a caravan sign led us off the main road towards the town of “Little Rock” and into the smallest campground yet. Two spaces with electricity in a sports and recreation park. We were the only takers and at $10.00 in an honesty box good value. It obviously pays to take the quieter roads.

At this point we were heading for the Sioux Falls area. I had been making unhappy noises to Michelin about our steering wander since the FMCA rally in March. As everything else had failed to rectify the problem completely. Now they were getting interested in our problem and the possibility of new tires was in the wind.

Sioux Falls was the nearest city with a sizable Michelin dealer. Located at the eastern end of South Dakota where we were heading, to visit the state parks of the Badlands and Mount Rushmore at the western end.

Our first stop was in the Tourist Welcome center immediately upon crossing the state border. Here we are provided with a state map, a State Park list and a campground list.

So choosing a State Park with camping only six miles from the city of Sioux Falls in Brandon, we found ourselves in an out of the way, 10 site campground at only $9.00 per day with electricity and shade. With only two other residents, nice and peaceful beside a river

We did have to buy a State Park annual license fee for $20.00, to enable us to drive a vehicle into all South Dakota State Parks. As we were intending to be in S.D. for some time, hopefully a good investment rather than paying $4.00 per day.

It was here that I saw a triple articulated lorry of 110 ft. disconnecting the last trailer to be legal on his way through to Iowa.

Possibly I have said before that most Americans are a friendly and sociable race. At any time you might be asked “How are you?” or “How are you doing?” just a friendly greeting to all and sundry.

These greetings happen in mall car parks, in shops, restaurants or even in the gents. We are constantly receiving these greetings in campgrounds from other campers, who when they hear our British, or sometimes “Australian Accent”, invite us to their table or campfire for a chat.

It might be that other campers are mature self sufficient responsible people in a similar situation to ourselves. Invariably the conversation gets to their European relatives who we might just know!

10/8/98 I spoke too soon, the “Pond Life” has just moved into our peaceful campground. With kids yelling, dogs yapping and the adults screaming incessantly at one another. The car radio up loud and a guitar strumming until 1.00 am.

I wonder if they have even paid to be here as they turned up late in the evening and were not around at warden time. There are other campgrounds locally but at $25.00 and beside the freeway not for us.

Fuel prices are on the rise as we move West. Diesel cost us $1.04 filling up in Iowa and petrol up to $1.12 per gall, about £0.68 or £0.80 per imperial gallon. I now run low looking for a few cents cheaper

This last weekend a Harley Davidson rally was held at Sturgis, South Dakota. The TV said that 400,000 bikers attended and 12 weddings a day were performed. This event is a Woodstock with wheels where Missionaries, Doctors, Lawyers and “normal” folk don their leathers and a few odd garbs to hang out on two wheels.

Some with everything on the back of the bike, some with a million dollar motorhome and color coordinated trailer and bikes. They were still passing us a week later heading home from the rally.

I was lucky for us we did not get to The Badlands that weekend as every available space was taken. Also the police have a high profile and plenty of arrests were made.

We have to kick our heels here for a few more days as my negotiations with Michelin have produced an offer of a 50% reduction on two new XRV tyres to try and aid the steering problem.

Dealing with four different people at Michelin and three different people at the tire dealer. Produced a variety of numbers, which took 24 hours and many trips to phones and down town to resolve.

I still feel that after six months, $2,000, five alignment shops, 8,000 miles, fitting of a Sway Bar and a Safe-T-Plus it can only be the tires. We will see.

To kill time we visited a large mall on the outskirts of town. Apart from the usual Sears and J.C.Penny department stores, my wife wanted some white cotton. So asking for directions we turned a corner and entered the largest haberdashery and book store ever.

Combined they were the size of “Brent Cross” shopping center. With their own coffee shop and restaurant you could spend all day there. My wife spent $50.00 on things we don’t need but I cant complain as I have spent more on spares for the RV that I hope we NEVER need.

We saw an add on TV that offered $50.00 to give blood. Visiting a launderette on a small parade $200.00 was offered for giving blood. We wondered how much you had to give and how much it changed hands for.

Although American restaurants give enormous value for money in the quantity department, some times the quality or finesse leaves a lot to be desired. Often a stone cold plate and fierce air conditioning gets your hot food to your table luke warm. Drinking coffee from a thick plastic mug or a polystyrene cup is the norm and the automatic placing of a sticky plastic glass of ice cold water in front of you takes the edge off.

Another gripe of ours is we take milk and sugar in coffee. As soon as it’s just right and has gone down an inch along comes a top up and ruins it.

Not everything is bigger and better in the US. Their gallons and toilet paper are smaller than ours. Occasionally we see a tiny caravan or pop top which would attract stares in Europe

While wasting time, we venture further and further from our campground and stumble across a “Ghost Town” a few miles west of Sioux Falls. It was only $4.00 each but it was almost derelict and badly in need of a little upkeep.

Many painted descriptions  were difficult to read as they were so dirty from bird droppings. The board walk was patched with chip board. We were promised a herd of Buffalo would come by for food but all we saw were four in a pen being prepared for market.

Another diversion was the local Zoo. Normally we avoid Zoo’s as the animals suffer for our gratification. Sioux Falls was typical in it’s minuscule enclosures but did have a marvelous display of stuffed animals.

We were a little late in seeking lunch on Friday and in desperation chose a ”Sports Bar”. It was a bar and grill with 30 televisions all with cable and 56 channels. One at each table or booth, even in the toilets and in the kitchens. Even the food was quite acceptable and cheap. You could even place bets from the table or buy lottery tickets.

That afternoon we were visiting another State Park 15 miles away in Garettson. As we entered the park the female warden said that we had a message. “Our tyres were in”!!

She could see the bewildered expression on my face and explained that it had come over the radio and another warden was at that moment going to our RV to leave a message. She had recognized us and relayed the news. Just as I was thinking how inefficient the US was.

We galloped off and had two new Michelin XRV tyres fitted and balanced for $360.00 or about £100.00 each. This made a marked improvement to our steering problem and gave a much smoother ride. So much so that I will definitely be changing the rear four tyres for XRV’s.

Saturday, two days early and we are on our way west, just stopping long enough to find out that our mail has not arrived before our departure. The post master was good enough to offer to send it on to us at our next campground.

That day we comfortably drove 303 miles. Stopping for lunch and a visit to the “World” famous Corn Palace in Mitchell. Since 1892 this exhibition center has been decorated in a different theme each year with local produce including corn of different colors nailed to the outside. This year it depicted every aspect of sport.

We also stopped at an 1880 town just outside Murdo, South Dakota and a few miles over another mid state time change from Central to Mountain time where we gained another hour.

Over 30 original buildings including a rail depot. 1950 Train Diner and movie props from “Dancing With Wolves”, are probably worth the $6.00 entrance fee. Or only $5.00 for “old” me.

The terrain changed dramatically after crossing The Missouri river. From the flat mile after mile of agricultural sweet corn and Soya beans to more undulating hills covered with cattle.

The road started to climb also revealing hills and valleys. We finally turned off interstate 90 and onto The Badlands Scenic loop. A 35 mile stretch of two lane road suitable for motorhomes that winds it’s way through a fantastic Lunar Landscape.

It was early French trappers that named this area. “Les mauvaises terres a’ traverser”. Or “Bad Lands To Cross”. You can imagine the choice words that were uttered when confronted with this terrain to cross on a horse and cart.

The “Badlands” is a rugged barrier of tinted spires, ridges and twisted gullies between two strips of undulating prairie.

The Badlands National Park covers 244,000 acres and includes “The Worlds” greatest variety of grasslands as well as the fantastic geological forms. Much wildlife also exists here, Bison, Big Horn Sheep, Prong Horn Antelope, Prairie Dogs, Coyotes and Ferrets are just some.

The prairie dogs will take peanuts from your hand at two designated areas. Due to the tourists they are the fattest rodents I have ever seen. 

As usual The Americans exhibit their national treasures brilliantly. From the Visitors Center where a dual video, one with subtitles, shows everything in the Badlands. To the vehicle access and parking places called overlooks even for RV’s and disabled access to viewpoints.

While watching the video we were treated to the extra delight of a pair of swallows feeding their brood of three just above the monitors.

We took a helicopter ride just before sunset. Although only ten miles and ten of fifteen minutes, we had a view not to be missed for $47.00.  As we anticipate visiting numerous National Parks, we bought a “Golden Eagle Passport”  for $50.00 that allows unlimited entry to “Most” National Parks throughout the nation.

The first night we stayed in The Cedar Pass Campground within the park but without hook up for $10.00. By 7.00 p.m. it was full of predominately tents. The next night a commercial campground two miles down the road gave full hook up for $16.00 less 10% for Good Sam, that we were very grateful to be able to use the air-con in 90* heat.

One excursion of 32 miles we took while staying in the Badlands was to the small out of the way “Town” of “Scenic”, population 22. Apart from the “Bar Person” and the owner of the only other store, the rest of the community were Indians drunk out of their minds sprawled on the ground completely helpless.

As soon as you enter South Dakota you are accosted by bill boards at the side of the freeway advertising everything from laxatives to national monuments. One that repeats at every mile for the first two hundred miles is “Wall Drug”. for the last one hundred miles it repeats every quarter mile.

“Wall Drug” is firmly on your mind after 300 miles and you turn off the freeway obediently at the correct exit. The town of Wall is predominately occupied by a tacky tourist trinket shop called “Wall Drug”. We succumbed and left an hour later sadder and wiser.

We found the Coast to Coast park, Rushmore Shadows RV park but they had used up their C.2 C. quota  and wanted $11.00 a night. As our mail was on it’s way we paid for two nights. It was quite reasonable and handy for the tourist attractions.

After our two nights stay at Rushmore Shadows we moved five miles down the road to another Coast to Coast resort. This was the best RV park we have ever stayed at. Hart Ranch Resort at $4.00 per night was the best value ever. With 506 sites, manicured lawns, cable TV, 50 amp hook up, five launderettes, in and out pool, a palatial members club house and every conceivable facility we opted to stay for our permitted week.

It not only nestled in the Black hills within 12 miles of Rapid City, Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse Mountain, Custer state Park and Wind Cave National Park. The club’s own golf course, horse riding stables, bison herd ,service shop and fuel station are available to members.

To say Mount Rushmore is impressive, is an understatement. As usual The Americans presented this monument in a theatrical extravaganza. Taking fourteen years to almost complete in solid granite. It draws over 2.5 million visitors a year.

With it’s visitors center, restaurant, film show and easy walk along a wooden board walk to the base of the mountain, it’s user friendly and at only $8.00 for the undercover parking well worth it. At 9.00 each evening a lighting ceremony takes place.

Just round the corner or next mountain is the sculpture of Chief Crazy Horse. This monument to the Indian Chief and the Indian people draws 1.5 million visitors and is even bigger. After 50 years only the face of Chief Crazy  Horse has been completed. It will take another 500 years to complete the full sculpture of the torso of this warrior, the front half of his horse and take all the mountain.

This area of South Dakota is known as The Black Hills. An oasis of 500,000 acres of pine clad mountains on the great plains. They offer scenic drives, waterfalls, wildlife, trails and fishing where wild bison and horses roam free in Custer State Park.

We drove 500 miles in five days in the car. Dined in the shadow of the monuments. Were frequently surrounded by wild animals and saw the most impressive of mountain formations.

One day we found an interesting restaurant down town made out of an old fire station. With all the trimmings and memorabilia retained including the pole. A mezzanine over the bar, an open area housed the diners and the brewery. Also outside in the practice yard.

That afternoon we visited the South Dakota Air and Space Museum at Ellsworth, where 28 aircraft and missiles are on view. But the most interesting item was to be a visit to the only Minuteman missile silo open to the public. The day was immediately after The US bombed Afghanistan and Sudan, which due to security had closed all and any military facility.

Driving into Rapid City we passed a large collection of old cars in quite good condition. It was a museum but over 100 cars were for sale. From 1939 and $6,000.00 to 1966 and $500.00. Many were drivable but all wanted some restoration. Four Edsels and Cadilacs several fire trucks and convertibles.

Each day under a clear blue sky, the temperature rose to over 90 f. or 33 c. which by evening  produced thunder clouds and fantastic lightning storms. The campground was in a valley and the lightning dancing along the hills around us lit up the hundreds of RV’s like a grave yard.

For the last two days of our stay at Hart Ranch we were joined by friends that had bought a Fleetwood Dream from Beaudrys at the same time we had. They were on their way East to the Fleetwood factory and a christening in New Jersey.

We had kept in touch by the FMCA message service and now six months later caught up with news, failures and modifications of our respective RV’s. We dined and socialized until all too soon we went our opposite ways at about mid afternoon.

Before leaving this beautiful part of South Dakota, we stopped in a campground at the foot of hill containing a petrified forest only 38 miles later. Once again everything is bigger and better in The US.

The whole hillside was covered with the petrified remains of trees from 150 million years ago. When a geological upheaval brought them to the surface. More than 50 whole trees and countless pieces were strewn around this hilltop. A pile of 400 petrified logs were stacked in one place, resembling a wood pile.

Our memories of this state were extremely pleasant. During the summer months it was a super place to live, with low crime and divorce rate, perfect climate and interesting sites and places to visit. But with five months of winter snow, only for “Snow Birds”.

On entering Wyoming, we stopped at the visitors center and asked for the usual camping information, especially in Yellowstone Park. The ranger suggested a visit to The Devils Tower which was nearby and only a 28 mile diversion.

This 850 ft. high tower was designated in 1906 the first National Monument in the US. It is the central core of a long gone volcano sticking out of the landscape. It comprises of pentagonal columns.

Traveling across Wyoming to get to Yellowstone, we cross 260 miles of the most varied terrain in the mid west. Starting with the rolling Black Hills leading down into Thunder Basin National Grassland.

Passing through Buffalo and onto state road 16, we climbed over The Big Horn mountains and through some of the most scenic hills and valleys I have ever witnessed. Pine clad mountains with streams cascading down beside the road which then wound round rocky pinnacles. Hairpin bends going back and forth to gain or lose 6,000 ft. of a 10,000 ft mountain.

Next came 50 miles of scrub desert on more rolling hills. Each hill having a “Nodding Donkey” on it similar to Texas. This gave way to flat agriculture as we neared the river Big Horn and the town of Greybull.

Water channeled in irrigation canals for miles to retain the required fall, would go off into the desert and back again. A green band of fertile produce, sweet corn, spinach and other crops stretched a mile or so either side of the river.

Turning West again from Greybull to Cody more prairie and uninteresting scrub went on for miles. We passed the “Town” of Emblem with a population of 10 and wondered how they made a living. Apart from the Post Office and a pile of scrap metal scaring the land, there was nothing  for 20 miles.

Cody, pop. 6500, was a real old western town, with “Saloons” and boardwalks. Wild Bill Hickock or Buffalo Bill Cody is immortalized here with a historical center that contains six museums and exhibitions. Well worth the $8.00 for my wife and $6.50 for me being a “Senior”.

Reportedly the largest Art / History Museum between Minneapolis and the West Coast, 250,000 visitors visit annually. One part is devoted to the Plains Indians, another to art, another to the Cody Firearms collection, of which 2600 are on display with another 2000 in vaults.

The largest section being about Buffalo Bill himself and his various exploits. Some true, some false. His time in England is well documented even with an old film. We thororly recommend a whole day to look round this marvelous collection even though we whizzed through in two hours as we had reserved a site in Yellowstone that night.

Immediately upon leaving the town of Cody, the road starts winding up into the hills and passes “Buffalo Bill” reservoir into Shoshone Canyon. This part is beautifully scenic between the mountains and beside The North Fork River. But within a few miles road works reduce the reasonable road to a series of assault courses for tracked vehicles. We made slow progress between the boulders and single lane track without any traffic controls.

Climbing to 7000 ft. we enter the park through the East gate. And flashing our annual pass to The National Parks, we are waved in with an “I love your accent”.

Yellowstone is everything you have ever heard and more! About the size of Yorkshire at 3,472 sq. miles or 2,220,000 acres with 370 miles of roads. 10,000 thermal features like “Old Faithful”. The largest concentration of free roaming wildlife in the lower 48 states.

Most of the park is at about 8,000 ft. and Yellowstone lake is the largest body of water above 7,000 ft. in the “World”.

We managed to see 100’s of Buffalo, dozens of Elk, many deer, Big Horn Sheep, trout, one Moose and Kestrel diving into the streams to catch fish. We walked miles round a thermal circuit to watch geysers spout steam and water up to 100 ft. into the air. many boiling pools of different colors about 190* F. Mud popping and boiling. some of these eruptions occurring below the surface of the rivers and lakes.

With nine months of snow, we were fortunate to be able to visit after the crowds and before the weather closed in. Ten years ago a fire ravaged the forests of Yellowstone to such an extent that I can remember our media in England saying that the park had been destroyed.

In fact about 750,000 acres were burnt or one third of the park. Only 1% of the wildlife suffered.  Now 10 years later, apart from millions of dead pine trees decomposing into the soil, new growth is apparent everywhere. The herds of wildlife are increasing.

Our campground at Fishing Bridge is the only one that provides a full hook up. At $30.00 per night, a little stiff but well worth it. many other campgrounds are available at $12.00 but extremely primitive.

There is far more to Yellowstone than our four days or space here could possibly do justice to. Just to say that as usual the items of interest were accessible to the car and some times a wheelchair. With large car parks that could accommodate the largest RV, and board walks that allow you to walk across a volcanic crust and peer into the depths of a boiling crystal pool.

The entertainment does not stop at nightfall either. Each visitors center has an outside  Amphitheater in the pines, with audio and visual aids to evening seminars or educational talks on the history, geology, wildlife and evolution of the parks.

Moving on to Grand Teton National Park which lies immediately south of Yellowstone, you are immediately struck by a different beauty. Numerous lakes interconnected by The Snake River at 6,500 ft. are flanked by The Teton range of mountains of up to 13,800 ft. high. Some like Mt. Moran having five glaciers on it’s slopes.

With only 68 miles covered that day, we opted to stay in the only campground with full hook up in Grand Teton and beside Jackson Lake at $31.00. We were again treated to two evening talks about birds of prey found in the park.

That evening and the following morning, my wife was determined to see more than the ONE moose we found in Yellowstone. So positioning our motorhome on a bend in The Snake River called “Oxbow Bend”, where a double bend in the river had produced the ideal Moose habitat, we waited.

Our patience was rewarded. Seven adult and two baby moose drifted into view and munched their way through young willow shoots. While waiting we were treated to the sight of five pelicans, three herons, numerous ospreys and two giant fish eagles tearing into a large fish.

We were elated and happy to move on south through The Teton National Park. Even the diabolical road works just south of Jackson did not dampen our joy. We were down to less than 5 mph. Picking our way round the boulders and holes.

I apologized to the truck driver behind us on the CB radio about our slow progress. He was sympathetic and appreciated our concern with a “Take it easy”.

Winding down beside the Snake river from The Tetons, we were to follow its progress for many miles across Idaho and into Oregon where it flowed into Washington and became The Columbia River. We saw many delightful forestry campgrounds but the road works were covering everything with dust.

So we opted for another Coast to Coast site at Thane in The Star Valley. This five star campground had over 500 sites and every conceivable facility available to us but with little or no shade and RV’s packed together so tightly, we were happy to move on after only one night at $4.00

 

 

 

 

RV ing from a Brit’s view. Part 6.

 

5.9.98

Next day Rick and Linda turned up from their 7,000 mile Alaskan trip. Apart from a cracked windscreen, one tire and a ton of dust, none the worse from their experiences. We swapped stories on who saw the most wildlife in Yellowstone or Alaska. They won with a whale.

Two days relaxing with our friends in Emmett, being bitten alive by mosquitoes and trying to sleep in humid 70* F. night time temperatures. We were happy to accept the offer of their daughter and son in law, Sharon and Don who have a few acres up in the Cascade mountains 80 mile north of Boise.

Two hours following The Payette River north and gaining 3,000 ft. in 50 miles up one of the most picturesque valleys. We saw white water rafts and a timber train following the course of the river.

The rapids boiled and foamed downstream round rocks and boulders. Starting with brown and muddy lower down, graduating to pure crystal clear water after it forks at Banks.

Eventually at 5,500 ft. just below the town of Cascade we turned onto a gravel road and into the four acre patch within the pines that Don  and Sharon own and plan to build their retirement home on.

At present they have a chalet, a 5th. wheel and spend all their spare time just getting away from it all at up to 8,000 ft.

We enjoyed exploring some of the many thousands of miles of logging trails by jeep. Occasionally finding deer and elk tracks. Spotting many birds of prey. Winding round the overgrown tracks in the go anywhere jeep, even through streams and over trees fallen across the path.

They also have two horses which are perfect for this mountainous terrain but we were happy with four wheels even in a downpour and no hood.

A few days living the outdoor life of coffee brewing on the open campfire, which could also produce breakfast on a skillet or dinner in a giant pot. Being entertained by their two dogs, that understood every word spoken and fetched anything asked for.

We panned for gold, played horse shoes, sunk some beer and generally put the world to rights round this fire. Also we let them know just how lucky they were in having such a play ground.

If ever we are invited again to this idyllic spot, where the back to nature feeling is all around, I will jump at it. Bearing in mind they have several feet of snow on the ground for four or five months of the year.

Eventually Rick, Linda and ourselves went our separate ways. They north to Canada again for a few weeks before heading to Phoenix and their flight home in mid October. We were still on a westerly track into Oregon and then south to visit as many of the National Parks as possible before we too have to end up in Phoenix and our return flight mid November.

Heading west we found we were following the route of the original Oregon Trail migrants and stopped at Baker to visit the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center. This fascinating collection of historic memorabilia and facts, show the hardship and endurance of these pioneers had to suffer on their six to nine month journey over 2,000 miles of difficult terrain.

About 400,000 migrants made the voyage to the western coast to escape the poverty, violence and unsanitary conditions in the east.

Ahead was the promise of gold and fertile land but many died on the way from disease, accidents with the wagons or guns. Contrary to popular belief, Indians were an asset and assisted the pioneers to cross rivers and traded food. Only a small number were killed by the Indians.

Oregon has a similar land mass to The British Isles but a population of only 3.2 million. The state has everything from skiing up mountains of 11,240 ft. to 400 miles of sandy coastline. Thousand of miles of rivers with white water rapids and thousands of acres of pine forests.

The mild climate allows fruit farms of peaches and grapes. Many vast deserts give a varied and dramatic landscape.

Passing over the Blue Mountains at 4,200 ft. with a six mile approach and decent down to Pendleton and the Columbia River, previously The Snake River. We noticed a train with eight engines. It’s quite common to see three or even four engines on one train depending on the incline or weight but eight meant that the grade was extreme.

Planning to stop before Portland for the night, we descended into the valley or gorge that the river had cut between Oregon and Washington. The Columbia River Gorge is an impressive sight with hills on either side some 900 ft. high and the river about 2,000 yd. wide in places. A road and railway follows both banks, making quite a highway.

A camping sign at Biggs led us over a bridge into Washington and a campground beside the river and in the shadow of STONEHENGE! Yes a full size replica in concrete had been erected by Sam Hill, to the dead of the first world war.

Sam Hill was the original designer of the first road through this gorge in 1900. This road, based on European designs, with ornate arches and balustrades, was spectacular as it respected the natural beauty of the terrain and went round them instead of blasting through them.

Parts of this historic highway are still usable. Like Route 66, it has been passed by the fast, modern interstate

Another benefit to this campsite and region was we were surrounded by peach and other fruit trees. They were so cheap and delicious we overdosed on fruit. On the downside, the two railway lines ran trains all night blowing their horns, barges throbbed up river and a small fire caused a siren to be sounded at 3 am. It was the worst night’s sleep ever. It was deafening.

Next day we only traveled 44 miles. The scenery slowed us down, as did The Columbia Gorge Discovery Center. Calling in at 10.00 we did not leave until 3. p.m. It has the most revealing and interesting history and geological films, talks and displays. Once again The Americans display their limited history to the best advantage. You felt like you were walking back in time with the old facades and sets.

Just enough time to find the Coast to Coast campground at Mosier. Winding up into the hills onto dusty gravel roads, covered the camper in grime but the view of snow clad Mount Adams at 12300 ft. was worth it.

Driving the remainder of this incredible gorge, we opted for the freeway as a cloud was sitting in the river obscuring the views. We popped in and out of the mist only glimpsing the remains of the old historic road up along the hillside.

Portland looked a nice, tidy, modern city with a newly opened tram system. It is a user friendly city with pedestrians at the top of its priority list. We sped through on the overhead freeway, not realizing that a car had dived off a bridge into the tram lines below and slowed everything up. We viewed this on TV the next day.

As several people had said “You must visit the town of Seaside and start the coastal route 101 south” we went. Our verdict on Seaside was “Give it a miss!” Just a typical tourist tacky trap. Route 101 on the other hand varied from “Spectacular” to “Uncomfortable”.

This Pacific coast road winds along deserted golden sandy beaches one minute and then climbs up several hundred feet of rocky cliffs where tortuous, uneven and narrow lanes prevent the driver from looking at the waves breaking on the rocks below, producing a misty haze that gives a picture postcard image.

 

Occasionally a sandy cove with a large rock in the middle spawned a town with all the modern conveniences of commercialism along the way including campgrounds. In fact almost every half mile either a private or forestry service campground popped up.

Even out of season hundreds of thousands of RV’s filled the road and sites along the coast. It was at a particularly busy, windy part of this road that a rock claimed our third windscreen.

After 100 miles we turned inland towards Eugene. Intending to get a service at Cummins and tour the Monaco factory next door. Also the tyres on the Honda needed rotating as part of their service by The Discount Tyre Company who had a branch in Eugene.

Monaco, like most manufacturers have a free customer hook up at their premises. We swept in amongst the thirty or so customer Monaco RV’s parked in front of the office block.

They were all in for service and had hook up facilities, lounge, launderette etc. We had to go into another car park with only 50 amp power all to ourselves.

Monaco, like all other RV manufacturers has stepped up production with a subsequent loss of quality control. All 30 motorhomes were almost new and were complaining bitterly about having to spend so much time in the service shop with production faults.

It seems that the more you pay for a motorhome, the more time you spend in the repair shop. This included Executive and Signature models.

We took the factory tour, which was a bit of a let down. Apart from an excellent monokock chassis which is produced in a bunch of sheds and pushed around by hand, the rest of the production leaves a lot to be desired.

Bits of wood nailed together, roof curve formed by a few tapered bits of batten stapled onto the panels. Wiring like a bunch of knitting. Each stage of the spray job in a different bay, necessitating driving around the plant. So far Winnebago has the production efficiency edge.

I did receive an excellent quote for a new 100” wide Dynasty, about £75,000 less than the sticker price in Europe. Remember taxes and shipping would add another £36,000 to the cost. Maybe next time we can ride on a Monaco chassis.

Our next disappointment was Cummins. Due to the Monaco and Safari rallies happening that week, we could not get service for seven days. We were recommended to the local Freightliner truck service agent who could fit us in next day.

Again my faith in American mechanics was tested. $220.00 for a messy oil change and grease up. No knowledge of other mechanical things like our Pack Brake sticking or ride height adjustment.

Next time I go to Wall Mart for a $7.00 waste oil container and $34.00 for six gallon of best oil. One filter for $32.00 and do it myself. Total $73.00 and a bit of dirt.

Discount Tyre company was another thing. All wheels rotated and balanced in five minutes flat with a smile.

Two days sitting in Monaco’s car park cheered me up no end. Apart from no campground fees, almost every other motorhome owner had many more problems than us. One had been in and out of Monaco and Cummins for five years with turbo and manifold problems. We also managed to wash the RV and the laundry.

Marathon Coach Service Department was across the road from Monaco. Even they at $1.2 million had their problems.

Our next stop Roseburg only 70 miles to the south, where our mail forwarding service was, has little to recommend it other than its the gateway to Crater lake. As it started raining for the first time in 83 days, we chose to rest for a couple of days and catch up with the post.

Collecting our post from our mailing address was easy and an eye opener. Two extremely efficient women were sorting about 500 clients post and answering the phones, redirecting envelopes, entering it all on a PC and talking to me at the same time.

19/9/98.

Back on route 101 heading south once again, we were treated to some wonderful views of the rocky coastline. Many places on the road had been washed away at some time or another and badly patched. This gave a switchback like ride that rocked and swayed us even at a slow speed.

We called in at many bays and viewpoints to take pictures or just to sit and take it all in. From Bandon to Brookings there must be 20 or more State Parks that provide the tourist with a picnic spot or campground facilities.

One night at Arizona Beach Campground in Port Orford, right on the shoreline listening to the waves and watching the sun go down into the Pacific for $19.00, was a relaxing experience with a glass in hand.

At this time we saw on TV that unleaded petrol was at an all time low in Atlanta, Georgia at only 75.9 cents a US gallon, or about 56 pence per Imperial gallon. Apparently some garages were “loss leading” fuel to sell groceries !

As we were approaching the Californian state line, we decided to save a few cents in filling up with fuel while still in Oregon. Also it occurred to me that obtaining an Oregon driving license while we were there, might be advantageous.

Brookings was the last sizable town on route 101 south that might have a driving test center, so we called into Harris Beach State Park campground only one mile north of town. This State campground was all under trees in secluded sites with cable TV for $19.00 and a stones throw from the beach.

A little known fact is that Brookings was the only site in the 48 states bombed by the Japanese in 1942. This lumber town has a moderate climate which encourages retirees and 90% of Easter Lilies are grown here.

With low taxes and NO sales tax in Oregon, it is understandable that property prices are quite high here at  $50,000 for a plot with an ocean “glimpse”. And $350,000 to $1,000,000 for a nice ocean view home. License plates for any private vehicle at $30.00 for two years and RV’s unbelievably cheap.

Picking up a tank of fuel and a drivers manual, we spent the rest of the day on the beach swatting. There were twice as many regulations in Oregon as previous states we have taken the test in.

Next morning, $26.00 and  half an hour later I had my new Oregon driving license valid for five years. This tidied up the legality of having the same state for my residence, registration, insurance and license. Prue kept her Indiana license.

We did notice that this and previous driving licenses are valid to drive private vehicles up to 26,000 lbs. or 11.5 ton. As our Eagle’s gross is 30,000 lbs. or 13.5 ton, we have to rely on my international driving license to be within the law.

South again we crossed into California within five miles. At the border we were stopped by a trooper and asked if we had any fruit on board. We decided to come clean and I said that we had a bunch of bananas and some peaches.

“On you go and have a nice day” was the surprising reply. We wondered why they bothered to ask. We know that California is paranoid about any infection that might be introduced into their crops by fruit flies, fungus and other pests.

The giant redwoods was the next stop.

For the first 80 miles into northern California you pass through Redwood country. Redwood National Park is a unique eco system that creates its own weather.

The giant Redwoods that grow to over 360 ft. and live to 2,000 years old. Sometimes have a girth of 40 ft. Not many of these real giants still exist today due to logging companies activities.

Only 2 or 3% are left protected today for our appreciation.

It was in the early 1900’s that concern over the destruction of this national treasure was raised. During the 1920’s and 1930’s timberland was bought up to create state parks but It took until 1968 to protect the remaining three coastal areas into a National Park.

Much of the remaining Redwood trees are in private hands, either for logging or for tourists to pay to see the oddities like drive through tunnels, of which there are three.

The remaining “giant” or old growth trees are now protected. Most are 500 to 700 years old but some are over 1500 years. This spectacular growth is in part due to the sea mists and low cloud that drench the north California coastal area.

This gives a non tropical mild rain forest effect with moist, rotten, decaying vegetation all over the forest floor. From sea level to 3,100 ft. everything thrives and grows well. Even the wooden benches sprout.

We walked for hours amongst these giants. Feeling the immensity, the timelessness of these living things. Some had been dead for 200 years and were still standing. Others appeared to be burnt out shells, with only the bark supporting over 200 ft. of tree and still living.

We drove four miles on dirt roads to Gold Bluffs Beach, winding through thousands of these mammoths towards the sea on logging tracks. Most of the time in a heavy wet fog.

Eventually at the Pacific with the surf crashing onto the sand, we drove another four miles along gravel roads at the foot of 600 ft. cliffs with trees clinging perilously to the top edge. Driving through several small streams and passing  primitive campsites on the beach we came to Fern Canyon.

This “canyon” is basically a cut in the cliffs worn out by a stream. Two miles long, 40 ft. wide, 70 ft high and covered from top to bottom in ferns. Everything was dripping wet and as the erosion of the sides continued some of these enormous trees had crashed into the cut.

This gave a most picturesque hazy vista. Walking up this river bed on the usual boardwalk, every turn produced a perfect picture of a rotting Redwood being covered with a multitude of ferns. A tropical rain forest without the heat.

Not many cars made this difficult journey. But we did see two rental C class motorhomes bouncing through the riverbeds. Both were Cruise America, you have been warned.

All the State Parks have a 24 ft. maximum length of RV. We ended up on a dusty car park called a RV park beside the sea and road at Freshwater Lagoon, Orick. Half the residents were Hippies and looked like they had taken root. The rest were jostling for enough space to fit in as the fee was a small donation.

Just as we managed to get parked, we found a Coast to Coast park in the directory only a few minutes away and managed two quiet nights beside the Kalamath River at $4.00 per night.

Almost every day we woke up to mist or low cloud saturating everything but the sun shone through after lunch.

Moving south again down route 101, we entered Scotia and started on The Avenue of The Giants. A 31 mile narrow road beside route 101 through some of the largest and most weird trees. The most spectacular in private hands and chargeable.

Three hollowed out bases to allow a car to pass through. Three other hollowed out stumps into houses or rooms. All a bit tacky as the obligatory souvenir shops had to be negotiated before you exited.

We were overwhelmed by the trees but disappointed by the commercialism. In the town of Pepperwood, Pop. 100, virtually all residents appeared to be junk metal merchants. In this National Treasure of a finite resource, the odd inhabitant could reduce the locale to a rubbish heap.

The Avenue of the Giants is passable in a RV but with care and a wide body would have to be extra careful. Unless you are an addict to trees the first 10 miles would be sufficient. My wife had to experience the full monty.

Further down the 101, at Ukiah we entered into grape vine country. Many tasting outlets were beside the road. We passed quite a few looking for a campground and vineyard together. In the end we succumbed and tasted some nice wine at $27.00 a bottle.

Our campground that night was Cloverdale city fairgrounds site at $15.00 with full hook up and wine at $10.00 for 4 liters from the supermarket Albertsons.

We had encountered a few problems with the Eagle again. A leaking exhaust manifold, whistling Pack Brake and the gearbox shift pattern had changed.

Calling into a Cummins agent in Eureka and within two hours the bolts on the manifold had been torqued up again to eliminate that problem.

A call to Pack Brakes 800 number brought the suggestion of adjusting the stop position. A call to Allison’s 800 number, and we went through a diagnostic process before deciding that the Throttle Actuator needed adjusting by an Allison agent.

As we were rapidly approaching San Francisco, we decided to leave these other little problems to a more opportune moment. Fuel was our next concern. With a 150 gallon capacity, the big problem was forgetting to fill up. We would drive for 1,200 or 1,400 miles before thinking about fuel.

California suddenly took on a whole new image with diesel at $1.49 per gallon !! That’s highway robbery at £1.10 per imperial gallon. I was thinking of driving out of the state, when we saw diesel at $1.19. So filling up 120 gallon at $142.00. That’s £88.00.

Within a mile we found the price at $1.09, you can’t win.

Also in trying to book a campground we found all the campsites full to capacity due to a big ball game going on that weekend.

Eventually we managed to book two nights in the very campground that was immediately outside the stadium for the big game. Candlesticks campground at $38.00 per night was not only the most expensive site but the smallest patch to park on we have found.

We later learnt that the going rate for the day of the ball game was $76.00 per RV.

Everything was more expensive in San Francisco, from  parking, accommodation, campgrounds, food, souvenirs, property, tolls and even the price of fruit.

$6.00 to cross The Golden Gate Bridge. $15.00 per day for parking anywhere near the Fisherman’s Wharf. $20.00 for Spare Ribs, instead of the usual $12.00 or $15.00. Two bed apartments from $400K. to $700K.

We rode the famous cable cars and visited the power room museum, walked in down town Chinatown, drove down the “world famous” Lombard Street, that’s the wiggley one in all the films.

Some of the hills are unbelievable at 45* angle. We drove up and down Pacific Height’s looking for the house in the film of the same name but they all look alike. Why people pay up to $1M. for a house that you can’t park near, I don’t know!!

We spent most of Saturday at the “world famous” Fisherman’s Wharf, looking out to Alcatraz over our $10.00 breakfast, parked on a $3.00 per hour meter. Looking at expensive tacky trinkets and tee shirts. The National Maritime museum was FREE as our National Park ticket covered that.

We did have an excellent “Combo”, steak and lobster dinner served in wonderful surroundings overlooking the bay and the Golden Gate bridge. With wine and superb service but let down with an after dinner coffee served in a PLASTIC MUG.

The “Yanks” just do not have the faintest idea about finesse. Did you notice The President of the “Free World” pontificating on TV about his “Improper” relations drinking out of a CAN of coke

They think nothing of eating superb food from plastic plates and drinking wine out of a polystyrene cup. Almost every restaurant we visit, immediately serves ice cold water in a colored plastic glass. 

I must agree with “Terry Fleetwood” on many of the statements he makes. The most technological nation in the world is quite backward or quaintly old fashioned in many ways. You only have to look at the equipment in your RV, it’s 20 year old design.

We had booked tickets for the Alcatraz prison tour for next day, Sunday. Normally you would have to book several days beforehand for this popular attraction but as the big ball game was on at this time, interest  was a little light. 

We woke on the morning of the big ball game to another camper wanting our space as the site was full. I was told that for the regular price of $38.00 we could stay in the overflow car park at the rear of the campground.

This proved to be a refuse land fill site with skips, bulldozers and seagulls that had been white lined into an 800 space, $25.00 a car, park for the day. We slotted our rig in between the skips and left before 250,000 fans moved in.

With all day to kill we found that three blocks, or three hundred yards back from the bay side the parking was free when you found a spot.

After dining we watched the buskers, eccentrics and the gays putting on their respective acts. Some how San Francisco has more oddballs and weirdoes per acre than anywhere. We encountered many of them in the tourist areas.

Another entertainment was the sea lions that use pier 39 each day. Between 100 to 600 of these mammals frequent the pontoons set aside for their use. We watched about 150 fighting, playing and roaring within twenty feet of many tourists. Fascinating but smelly.

The Alcatraz tour was not only interesting and educational but entertaining also. 15 minutes on the boat and we were climbing onto this small island belonging to The National Park Service.

The island, originally a fort in 1853 and shortly after a lighthouse, only became a prison in 1915 for the military. The famous federal penitentiary that housed Capone, Doc Barker, Robert Stroud, Machine gun Kelly and others only came into being in 1934.

For 29 years 1,545 men did time here and spawned films like “Escape from Alcatraz” and “The Birdman of Alcatraz”.  Only three inmates ever escaped from the “rock”. It was then closed due to cost by Robert F. Kennedy.

A short occupation by Native Americans ( Indians ), and in 1973 then became part of The National Park Service who want to preserve and encourage visitors to this piece of their heritage.

It has been a tourist attraction almost as long as a prison. We climbed up the winding path to the cell block, passing many derelict buildings that were laundry’s, workshops, chapel, wardens house and living accommodation for other officers.

Inside the cell block, 336 cells lie empty and decaying but the whole place gives the visitor the shivers. Only 260 cells were ever filled at one time. There were no executions but five suicides and eight murders on Alcatraz. An audio tour guides one round the history of the corridors

We left The Rock at night with the lights of San Francisco and the two bay bridges on the approaching skyline, an impressive sight. Twenty minutes later, after removing our RV from the rubbish tip we turned in with thoughts of clanging cell doors.

Three million visitors come to this city each year and The Golden Gate Bridge is the most photographed thing in the “world”. Typically residents of big cities are not the most hospitable.

Although we only had three days in San Francisco, we felt a little claustrophobic and longed for the open road and more interesting sights. The traffic was frantic, getting faster and more reckless with volume.

As we drove over the Oakland Bay Bridge on the lower level, heading east. I was conscious of the vivid TV images in 1989 when the upper level collapsed in the earth quake, crushing cars and their occupants. We breathed a little more easy after the crossing.

 End page 7. 28th. Sept. 98. Doc 6.